We were woken early and tired by the sound of Delhi's rush hour getting into full swing. Breakfast in a bustle of business people and tourists, piped bhangra, omlette bar. This seems like a place where things happen.

Drive to the domestic terminal.

The way people drive here deserves a mention. Cars and trucks and vans and little three wheeler taxis called auto-rickshaws, decked out w/ chrome and badges; they are all racing each other on the town and country roads, and the motorways. Nobody wants to be overtaken or have to brake for a slower vehicle in his path. Consequently, everyone is weaving between lanes, straddling the broken white lines.

Arriving in Jodhpur.

As I step off the plane onto the metal steps it's the first time the heat hits me; feels like a big heavy, slightly soggy mattress just got dropped on me. 40degrees C is one thing when you see it printed on a page of news sheet, quite another when it's bearing down on the top of your head.

Late addition to the itinerary: The Maharajah of Jodhpur has heard that we are in town and has invited us to a cocktail party he is throwing for the British High Comission; Guests of honour - HRHs Prince of Wales, Duchess of Cornwall and Earl of Wessex, i.e. Charles, Camilla and Edward. The party is to take place at Balsamand Lake Palace, one of many palaces in MoJ's private collection I am informed.

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