A lot of hotel
In Jodhpur we stay at the Raas Hotel. Right in the middle of the town. Built entirely in the same red sandstone which gives the hotel's backdrop, i.e Mehrangarh Fort it's nickname. This is a modern boutique hotel based on the modern european model with some very Indian twists e.g. amazing unselfconsious service, with a smile that's ever so slightly (at first, before you get used to it) disconcerting. It is a gesture, which is so typically Indian, where the head is simultaneously nodded and shaken - it means "Yes." I find myself not wanting to leave this place; a feeling, I fear, I will be experiencing more in this wonderful country. Here's one of the reasons why: In the fading light after sundown at the bar which is on the roof of the restaurant; sitting in a warm dry breeze with a cold beer. The night comes on with the unique smell of cooking spices on wood fires. Where in our great western cities we would be listening to the sounds of police sirens, fire trucks braying and car horns impatient in the traffic jams... What to my ears seems like the sounds of complaint. Here it's drums and people singing in the distance; a weave of sound system overlaid on sound system; then fireworks popping, far and near, all over the city. It's a joyful sound, like the mother of all dusk parties, and it's every night.